1:00pm: Depart Tambopaxi for an hour long car ride through the national park to the base of Cotopaxi. Once there we gathered all of our gear (clothes, boots, crampons, axe, sleeping bag, headlight) and made the 40 minute hike up the mountain to the refugio at 15,912 feet.
3:00pm: Glacier practice.
5:00pm: Primitive dinner at the refugio and a few restless hours of sleep.
12:00am: Wake up and get ready for the climb.
12:30am-7:00am: The morning starts out with a 90 minute hike to the glacier, which was surprisingly difficult in the pitch black and with big boots on. The moon was nonexistent, but it was a perfectly clear night with a ton of stars and Quito in the far off distance (all week we had previously seen Cotopaxi from Marta and Ramiro’s roof in Quito every morning). At about 1:30am we made it to the glacier and strapped on the crampons for the ascent. The ensuing hours, until we reached the summit at about 7:00am, went by pretty quickly. It was tough, but the fact that we were on a glacier in the middle of the night above 16,000 feet was enough to keep my mind off the difficulty of the climb. The last quarter, as the sun was rising, was by far the hardest and went on forever, but in the end it was well worth the pain.
7:30am-10:00am: The descent was welcome as it afforded much needed oxygen and the return of coherent thoughts and sentences. It was also warm as we were about as close to the sun as one can get while still having their feet on the Earth. We made it back to the refugio around 10:00am and in one piece to start the next leg of our trip to Riobamba, which is in Central Ecuador.

Sheltering in a glacial foxhole for a quick drink

The darkness

One very large shadow (of Cotopaxi as the sun rose). The mountain in the distance is Iliniza Norte, the one that had given us so much trouble just a couple days earlier.

Victory

Waving to some passerby...in a commercial airliner

Altitude sickness

The sun shed some light on why a guide is a good idea...